Public procurement represents a powerful yet underused lever to support Europe’s industrial base and strategic autonomy. In the textile and clothing sector—supplying uniforms, workwear, healthcare and defence textiles—public purchasing decisions have a direct impact on industrial resilience, sustainability and security of supply.
EURATEX stresses that public procurement policies must better reflect the EU’s broader industrial, environmental and strategic objectives. While sustainability criteria are increasingly included in public tenders, price continues to dominate award decisions, often favouring low-cost imports that do not meet EU production standards.
To address this imbalance, EURATEX calls for procurement frameworks that recognise the full value of European textile production. This includes compliance with EU environmental and social legislation, product durability, quality, and security of supply. Sustainability criteria must be meaningful, verifiable and aligned with existing EU rules, rather than creating additional administrative burdens for suppliers.
Supporting local and European production through public procurement is also a matter of strategic autonomy. Recent crises—from the pandemic to geopolitical tensions—have demonstrated the risks of over-reliance on third-country suppliers for essential textile products. Public buyers should therefore be encouraged to consider resilience, proximity and reliability as part of award criteria.
EURATEX also highlights the need to improve access to public procurement for SMEs, which form the backbone of the European textile industry. Simplified procedures, realistic tender sizes and reduced administrative complexity are essential to ensure broad participation.
Public procurement should not be viewed solely as a cost-saving exercise, but as a strategic investment tool. By aligning procurement practices with EU policy goals, public authorities can stimulate demand for sustainable textiles, support industrial capabilities and reinforce Europe’s competitiveness.
Full position paper.